Garment



w. J. Jones 2,162,697

Y 6.5mm. y Filed A118. 30,195'7 zsheets-'sheet 1 June' zo, 1939.

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z WIV/iam Janes 'June zo, 1939. v J NES 2,162,697

GABIENT Filed Aug. 3o, 1957 2 sheets-sheet z A TTORNEYS.

i Patentedl June 20, 1939 PATENT; OFFICE 2,162,697 GARMENT `William James Jones, Forest Hills, N. Y., assignor to Talon, lnc., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application August 3o, 193'z, seriaiNo. 161,569' s claims. (ci. 2-14) My invention relates to garments especially womens dresses of the type having Va side placket opening inthe inwardly curved portion of the dress, While my invention is intended especially for dresses and is described herein as so applied,

it may be applicable to other garments of similar nature. l

Slide fasteners are at the present time rapidly replacing old types vof fastening means in the l0 plackets of womens dresses. They'have many advantages principally due to the light weight flexible and continuous nature of the fastening.

Some diiculties have been encountered, however, in the use of the slide fastener on dresses, especially when it is desired to make the dress so that it can be altered in size around the waist line. One of the principal advantages in applying slide fasteners to dress plackets is neatness of appearance and for that reason, any slight pucker of the material around the placket will be noticeable.

'I'he principal object of my invention is to provide adress placket constructionwhich will accommodate alterations in waist size and at the same time, provide a neat application without any loose edges or puckers either inside or out side the garment. l

In accomplishing the purpose of the invention, I provide inwardly folded flaps on opposite sidesl of the placket opening'and if such flaps are `cut and sewed together in the conventional manner, there will be a considered puckering of the material due to the fact that when the relatively wide flaps are turned under, the edges will be too-short and will tend 'to draw the material closer to the opening and cause the fastener to have a wavy and uneven appearance. Accordingly, I so cut the material that when the parts are sewed together there will be anextra fullnessI or length to the edgesof the material so that when the dress is being worn it will lie 'ilat against the inner side of the dress material. v In the accompanying drawings I have shown -for purposes ofl illustration one embodiment which my invention may assume in practice. In these drawings:

Fig. 1 shows a dress of a type to which my invention is applicable; l

Fig. 2 is an enlarged view of the exterior portion of the dress around the placket opening; Fig, 3 is a similar view on thev interior of the dress around the placket opening;

Fig. 4 is a cross-section on line 4--4 of Fig.` 3;

y Fig.5 showsthe manner of cutting the pieces'.

of material;

will be too short, that is, they will have the same Fig. 6 shows the rst step in sewing them together;

Fig. 'l illustrates the second step;

Fig, 8 shows the third step in which the pieces `of material on opposite sides of the opening are connected together at the upper and lower ends; and

Fig. 9 shows an interior view of the placket portion of the dress ready for application of a fastener. lo

'I'he dress. illustrated comprises generally anv upper portion I0 and a lower or skirt portion II which are united by a seam l2 at the waist line. The placket opening I3 extends vertically across the waist line in the inwardly curved portion of 15 the dress and the function of this opening in taking off or putting on the dress is well known. A portion .of the dress around the placket opening as shown on a larger scale in Figs. 2 and 3 may be described as having upper quarters I4, I5 and lower quarters I6, I'I, the pieces I4 and I6 being sewed together and pieces I5 and Il being sewed together 'Ihe left hand side of the opening overlaps the material on the other side of the opening and between the overlapping portions there is at- 25 tacheda slide fastener I3 in a well known man l ner, so that the edge I9 of the left hand portion serves as a flap to conceal the slide fastener when in use. As shown in Figs. 3 and 4 the slide fastener comprises fabric stringers 20' and 2l '30 stitched to opposite side's of the garment and rows of fastener 4e`1ement7s ,"22 attached to the strin'gers.v 'I'hese are operated by a slider 23 in opening and closing the fastener. y

The material on opposite sides of the placket opening is folded u'nder to provide relatively wide flaps 24', 25 for the purpose of permitting easy alterations in adjusting the size of the garment. When it is desired to increase the size at the waist the flaps 24, 25 will be let out to widen that portion of the dress, In practice dresses are usually made small enough to t the smallest person and practically all of the alterations arel for the purpose of increasing the size. In order to make thedress have a neat appearance, it is 5 necessary that these flaps extend continuously on opposite sides o f the `placket opening and if. cut and sewed together in the conventional manner, it will be observed thatv the edges oi these flaps length as the material at'. the line of the placket opening and therefore there will not be any fullness to accommodate the fullness as indicated at various points for example, at 2.1 in Figs. 2 and 3.

The purpose of this fullness, of course, is toprou vide a t over the larger portions of the body above and below the waist line.

I provide this desirable increase in length of the outer edge of the flap by cutting the material f for the garment as shown in Fig. 5, with hook-like hook, but it includes any corner which extends in the general manner as that illustrated in Fig. 5 so as to provide a greater length along the edges 33, 34 than at the fold lines 35, 36.

It will be observed that these fold'lines do not extend from the waist line at a right angle but generally run on an inclined angle as illustrated in order to provide for the narrowing of the dress at the waist line. Accordingly, when the edges of the pieces are folded back the hook-like corners will lie along the lines 31, 38 corresponding to the waist line. In actually sewing the pieces together an upper and lower quarter are connected by a row of stitching 39 which extends as at 60 .at an angle across the part which is to be folded. After being so formed they are then connected together as illustrated in Eig. 8 by upper stitching 62 and lower stitching 43, leaving an opening as indicated at 44 in Fig. 9. Fig. 9 suggests'the curvature of the dress in the upper and lower parts as seen from the interior of the garment and it will be observed that the flaps or internal folded portions 24, 25 will fold against the inner side of the dress material without tending to cause puckering in the material along the line of the opening. While I have shown and described in this application one embodiment which my invention may assume in practice,v it will be understood that this embodiment is merely for the purposes of illustration and description and that various other forms may be devised within the scope of my invention as set forth in the appended claims.

What I claim as my invention is:

1. A dress having a side placket opening in the inwardly curved portion of the dress, the edges of the material adjacent the opening being foided under to provide a wide ap which may be let out as desired to increase the waist size, the edges of the material which constitute the outer edges of the flaps being longer than the material at the line of the fold, and a continuous fastener means for closing the opening.-

2. A dress having a placket opening extending vertically across the waist line, the parts above and below the waist line being cut as separate quarters joined by a seam at the waist line, the upper quarters being cut with hook-like corners extending downwardly and the lower quarters being cut with similar hook-like corners extending upwardly, that portion of said seam joining said corners being at an angle to the main portion of said seam whereby when the edges are folded under, the folded parts will lie ilat against the inner side of the dress when in use, and a slide lfastener joined to the folded portions for closing the placket opening.

3. The method of making a dress of the class described comprising cutting upper and lower quarters with hook-like corners, sewing the upper quarters to the lower quarters by a line of stitching which extends angularly across the hook-like corners and then folding back the edge of the material, includin'g the'hook-like corners to provide a flap on each side whereby when the dress is worn the flap will lie flat against the inner side of the dress, then applying aslide fastener to opposite sides of the placket opening.

WILLIAM JAMES JONES. 

